Even though I write for Las Vegas City Life, a weekly paper in Las Vegas, I hadn't actually visited the city in two years, which is the equivalent of about 20 years in any other city. Things get torn down, rebuilt and torn down again so quickly that I hardly recognized the place when I returned last week for the Vegas Valley Book Festival -- plus, since the architectural aesthetic in most of suburban Las Vegas is sprawling stucco shopping centers, if you close your eyes for just a second, you don't know where the fuck you are when you open your eyes back up.
It's also a notoriously strange book town. I wrote about it once before in Post Road, so I won't belabor the point, but the folks at the Vegas Valley Book Festival always bring in top notch talent and the people just don't turn out like they should. It's not just Las Vegas, of course. Palm Springs has a book festival that attracts scads of big names and is the worst book festival I've ever attended. (This year, the highlight of the Palm Springs book festival for me was when a dust devil swept through an open field and then into a row of booths featuring mostly self-published authors selling their Christian mysteries -- a woman sitting underneath a huge, framed-in-glass copy of her iUniverse book cover had the frame crash down on top of her her head and, somehow, didn't get cut. There was glass everywhere, huge shards, and not a scratch on her, even though it broke on her head. She said it was her faith in Jesus. It was more like that scene in Pulp Fiction, really, where Samuel L doesn't get shot...) It's too bad, really, because I'd like to think that a city like Las Vegas, with two alt. weeklies, two newspapers, a large university and lots of young people would be craving a really great festival. (They did get big crowds, I understand, for Neil Gaiman and Michael Chabon, both who did evening readings/talks.)
Anyway, I still had a great time. And that means some weird shit:
1. At the Peppermill, where I ate on Friday with my friends and fellow Las Vegas Noir contributers Vu Tran, Lori Kozlowski and Todd James Pierce, we were served our food by an 18 year old girl who was 8 months pregnant and who filled all of us with guilt each time she walked by -- I mean, she was so pregnant, you could pretty much see the kid's beating heart through her low cut outfit and her service was pretty sketchy, which I suppose might be the case when you're carrying around cheeseburgers and a living entity in your womb. Our cocktail waitress, on the other hand, was not pregnant, but she had a black eye and bruises up and down her forearm, which made me want to give up drinking all together. In the bathroom, I had a conversation with a man who started talking to me while I pissed, which is always very, very comfortable:
Him: You ever eat here?
Me: I'm eating here now.
Him: They got one of these in Mesquite. It's amazing.
Me: The last time I ate here was about 7 years ago. It wasn't amazing then.
Him: What are you getting this time?
Me: Mushroom swiss burger.
Him: How is it?
Me: Well, I don't know. I feel guilty for making my server bring it to me.
Him: In Mesquite, you want to get the steak.
Me: (flushing)
Him: Where you seated?
Me: (zipping)
Him: (staring)
Me: In the back.
Him: All right. Have a good meal. It's awesome. Get the steak. I'll stop by and check on you later.
Me:
Him:
Me: Yeah, we're leaving pretty quick.
2. I stayed at the Artisan Hotel, which used to be a Travelodge underneath I-15, but which is now either a very cool or exceptionally tacky hotel underneath I-15. All the guest rooms are named for artists and are actually appointed really well...apart from the huge painting of a naked woman with her hairy bush on the wall just adjacent to my bed in the August Macke room (#523 if you'd like to sleep in the same bed as me at some point in your life). But the real surprise came when I was flipping through the channels on the huge flat screen in the room and came across channel 69, which, when I landed on it, featured a woman covered in cum screaming for "more dick, more dick!" At first I thought I must have hit a button on the remote and was now being changed $49.95 for hot dp action. But no, the Artisan offers free hardcore porn on channel 69 to all visitors. I was stunned and watched for another 5 hours in order to study the screen writing.
3. Fuckards follow me to all booksignings. As I sat a signing table with Charles Bock and Christopher Coake, a man walked up and stared at me.
Man: Who are you people?
Me: Just your average carbon-based life forms.
Man: What are you doing sitting here?
Me: Taking questions.
Man: What's going on at this place?
Me: it's a book festival.
Man: I've got a couple books. None in print.
Me: That's great.
Man: Who is your publisher?
Me: Why?
Man: I'm really interested in publishers.
Me: Why?
Man: Tells me a lot about the writer.
Me: Why?
Man: Well, you know, you can't get published anymore. It's impossible.
Me: Clearly that's not the case.
Man: Who are your publishers?
Me (I rattle them off)
Man: Who is your agent?
Me: You realize you haven't asked me my name?
Man: What's your name.
Me: Tod Goldberg
Man: You write anything I've heard of?
Me: I don't know, you ever hear of Tod Goldberg?
Man: No. Is he popular?
4. I visited a great bookstore in Henderson called Cheesecake & Crime. Here's the deal. I don't actually like cheesecake. The only cheesecake I've ever liked I had in NY at about 3am and it might have been the result of dire hunger. But when in Rome and all that, I took a piece when offered. And it was fucking remarkable. It was the kind of cheesecake that made me think that maybe I really do like cheesecake but that for all of these years, I've told myself that I don't and have therefore missed out on some excellent desserts. It's also a great little mystery bookshop, the kind you really don't see much of anymore when you travel around on a book tour, where the people behind the counter actually know and love books and genre fiction in particular. If you get to Las Vegas and have some money left, you should at least go for the cheesecake.
5. On Friday night, I ended up at this street fair thing in Las Vegas called First Friday. It's mostly kids dressed like they robbed a Hot Topic attempting to look cool, but failing miserably because it's hard to look cool wearing girl's jeans and eating a funnel cake. (The funnel cakes were, incidentally, quite good.) This is true of girls and boys. There was a poetry stage being hosted by my friend Jarret Keene and I'm afraid I couldn't listen to much of what was being said because it was being said in poet voice. There are two voices that make me insane: Poet voice and Michael Silverblatt's voice. Silverblatt is far more tolerable because it's broken up with the occasional comment from the authors on Book Worm as well. For example, if I were ever on the show (something I, uh, tend to think won't happen as long as I do these sorts of things, but, really, I'm sure Michael has a good sense of humor...so: dude, my new story collection comes out in the fall of 09...I'd love to be on...):
Silverblatt: Tod, I am struck by the power in your prose, the way words tumble from the page like mercury, like Jupiter, like Pluto, once a planet, but no more a planet, now just a bit of stardust, like your words, floating, inexorably, through, time. And yet, I find that your words are also like play-dough, in that when I eat them I find them at first...salty...yet...plain...and I found myself yearning for...bite...verve...only found in the works of people like Rilke, like Rick Springfield, whose girl, while Jessie's, was, in fact, no longer, like Pluto. Yes?
Me: I'm just happy to be on the show, Mike.
Poet voice, however, is a freight train of fucktardism leaving the station at a terrifyingly slow pace. Where...every...word...gets...it's...own....pause...except whenwordsareputtogetherreallyquicklyforaddedemphasis...and...then...frozen...like...the...the Hoth...planet. Anyway. One line of poetry did stick in my head. It was uttered by a woman who must be famous, because she was dressed very well and had a shaved head, which fairly screamed to me "Tenured Faculty". It was something like, "My mother discovered her uterus was missing." Then there was a poet who is also a cop and he got up and yelled at the "grazing cows" who wouldn't stop to listen to his poetry, which consisted of a lot of screaming about, uh, well, I couldn't really make that part out. But a lot of screaming, in poet voice. The cows just kept grazing.
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